1. Introduction
These digital pages are dedicated to carefully explaining the technical process and the aesthetic concepts that underlie soup dumpling making. We will also address the modern adaptations of this art, suggesting methods and materials that make the process more practical in the contemporary kitchen. This cookbook is not an end in itself. At any particular time, it can only reflect our current level of understanding and is offered as a resource to others who are interested in making soup dumplings at home. The precision and craftsmanship that was once taken for granted in the home kitchen has largely been lost. By way of these pages, we hope to recapture some of that and lay the groundwork for further exploration and understanding of this venerable art form.
The key to making soup dumplings is to understand the various technical factors that come into play. This includes the characteristics of the ingredients used, the necessity of a suitable dough, the cooking and chilling of aspic, the choice of ground meat, the proper folding of the dumplings, and the method and timing of cooking. But it is equally important to learn the fundamental underlying aesthetic concepts. These will govern the way we handle the dough and form the dumplings. Understanding this connection between the technical and the aesthetic is essential if one wishes to produce soup dumplings that are both elegant and delicious.
2. History of Soup Dumplings
Jewish traders coming over the Silk Road first introduced Chinese dumplings. They believed it was a small bag of money. Then it spread from west to east. Dumplings transformed by adding doughy buns to the stew resulted in what we now think of as sweet and sour pork. It may have been the Mongols that had a great impact on Chinese dumplings. This was due to their advancements in all sorts of cooking and kitchen techniques. This is evident especially in the use of "jiaozi" as a term for dumplings. Because this term originally referred to some type of filled dumpling and the modern boiled "jiaozi" that it refers to so commonly today in China was called "shuijiao" during most of its history and only regained the title of "jiaozi" much later on. This term is also used to describe the gyoza that the Japanese borrowed from China. The term "momo" is also used to describe dumplings in various sizes in South Asia, which bears resemblance to some of the different types of dumplings that the Mongols had encountered in different regions of China. By this time, the dumplings had spread eastward to Shanghai and had been transformed back into soup dumplings in a new and improved form. But only after more than 1000 years can Chinese dumplings compensate for the food status from the "cheap fast food" to an enjoyment.
3. Ingredients and Preparation
The basic ingredients for most dumpling fillings are ground lean meat and chopped or finely minced vegetables. Many variations can be found, however: some dumplings are filled with meat, while others have an all-vegetable or seafood filling. There are great regional differences in the types of vegetables used, too. Pork is the most common meat filling, but lamb and mutton are both used in north China, and other meats are found in other regions. Salt, sugar, and that most indispensable of all Chinese seasonings, soy sauce, are the main flavorings, but there are innumerable variations, with garlic, scallions, and gingerroot particularly popular in north China. Sometimes a small amount of stock is added, to make the filling juicier.
Precisely the correct proportions and exact methods of mixing the ingredients vary from one person to another, and it is futile to argue about whose method is best. It is worth noting, however, that many of the best Chinese cooks take at least as much pride in their dumpling fillings as in their more elaborate dishes. The seasoned filling is left to stand for an hour or two to let the flavors develop, and sometimes it is better the second day.
4. Techniques for Folding Dumplings
The final technique is the "purse" shape. Do the same as with the previous techniques to secure the filling in a round wrapper. Brush the edges with water and gather the wrapper up around the filling, creating a small opening at the top—it should look like a drawstring purse. Place the dumpling on a flat side so that it will sit up and the top of the purse is pinched tightly closed. This is the best way to prepare dumplings that will be added to soup.
The second is the "pleated" crescent. Again, spoon the filling into a round wrapper and brush the edges with water. Fold the wrapper in half, creating the same half-moon shape, but rather than sealing the edges, create 4-5 small folds along the sealed edge. Press the dough together around these folds to secure them. It can be helpful to watch an individual skilled at this technique, and sometimes dumpling parties end in a contest as to who can make the most perfect "pleated" crescent. This technique is best when frying the dumplings.
There are several techniques for folding dumplings. The most common is the simple fold-over. To do this, place a spoonful of filling in the center of the round wrapper. Brush the edges with water and fold the wrapper in half, creating a half-moon shape and pressing the edges together to seal. This can be done with the skin wrapper and the noodle wrapper.
5. Serving and Enjoying Soup Dumplings
Serving and enjoying soup dumplings is an art in itself. Care must be taken to handle the dumplings once they are brought to the table so as to avoid breaking them and losing the precious filling and soup. Serve these dumplings with black vinegar. The best kind to use is Chinese black vinegar. It has a unique sweet and tangy taste that combines well with dumplings, never overpowering it. If you cannot find it, balsamic vinegar makes a fine substitute. Have some shredded ginger on hand as well. Combine the ginger and vinegar to suit your taste in a small serving bowl. Make sure everyone that is partaking of the dumplings has a spoon and some sort of shallow, preferably ceramic, dish that has a small lip. It is important that the dish have a lip to catch the precious soup that is inside of the dumplings. Before you transfer the dumplings to the dish, prepare each person's first one by dipping it into the vinegar sauce. After transferring the dumpling to the person's dish, they may wish to poke a hole in it to allow the steam to escape. This will help to cool off the dumpling so that it can be eaten more quickly. Whether wrapped or unwrapped, you should enjoy these delicious dumplings.
